"How cunningly nature hides every wrinkle of her inconceivable antiquity under roses and violets and morning dew!"
~Ralph Waldo Emerson
Plants Don't Waste Water -- People Do. How Much Should You Water?
This is a very hard question to answer. In fact, there are many different answers, and many of these different answers are correct, even though they may seem contradicting. Try asking ten gardeners this same question. You might get fifteen different answers.
Most gardening problems can be attributed to one single factor: WATER -- Too Much or Too Little? How much is enough and when is it too much? That is the million dollar question.
Too much water is just as bad for plants as not enough. Plants that are watered too often do not establish strong, healthy roots. When a problem comes along, the weak rooted plants are going to die before the strong rooted plants. Plants that are always kept wet cannot absorb enough oxygen from the soil so the roots start to rot and die. The symptoms of over watering are very similar to those caused by the lack of water --The plant wilts and dies. The reason the over-watered plant wilts is that many of the roots have died and the remaining roots cannot absorb water from the soil fast enough to support the leaves and flowers. A simple test to check for 'over-or-under'water is to watch a wilted plant. If you water a wilted plant and it recovers within a short period of time, the plant needed more water. If the wilted plant does not recover it is probably dying from too much water. A simplegardening fact is: More plants die from too much water than die from the lack of water.
Fertilize roses and perennial flowers every six to eight weeks from mid-April through mid-August with Systemic Rose and Flower Care. This fertilizer helps stimulate new blossom development and helps kill many unwanted insect pests. Do not fertilize roses or perennials after late-August but be sure to continue fertilizing annual flowers until October.
Roses are thirsty plants. Although roses will survive with skimpy watering, they'll bloom their best when their roots are kept moist (not wet) during the growing season, especially during their blooming season. Water them once or twice a week during the hot weather but do not sprinkle them. If water gets on the blossoms, the flowers will fade and fall off prematurely. Watch for powdery mildew and the black spot disease on the new leaves and stems. Spray regularly with either Bonide Infuse or Serenade Garden Fungicide if you see any signs of these two diseases. Powdery mildew is also a major disease problem for many flowers, especially zinnias, coreopsis, and phlox. Spray all your flowers at the same time you spray your roses. Roses tend to stop blooming during the heat of summer but should put on a magnificent array of flowers as soon as the temperatures start to fall.
Spidermites are a major pest of roses and flowers this year. Spray them with Bayer 3 In 1 Insect Spray every two weeks for two or three applications to control them. Spidermite Tip: wash the plants off with a high pressure hose nozzle a couple of hours before you plan to spray with your pesticide. The water helps wash the pests off the plants and helps remove any webs that might otherwise protect them from the chemical.
Fertilize your lawn every six to eight weeks during the spring, early-summer, and fall. Do not fertilize during July or early-August unless you absolutely have to: if you have to fertilize during the hot weather, use an iron supplement or an organic fertilizer such as Dr. Earth Lawn Fertilizer or Milorganite fertilizer. You should let your lawn slow down during the heat of summer. Too much fertilizer stimulates excessive growth, which is not good for the grass when it is hot. Fertilizer also makes the lawn require more water to keep it growing during the heat. Wait until Labor Day to fertilize your lawn this fall.
Lawn Fertilizer Tip: Do not fertilize your lawn at all this fall until the weather cools down into the 80's and don't fertilize your lawn if you have major water restrictions. If you have major water restrictions, wait until it starts to snow, in October or November, before applying any fall fertilizer. You can put your fall or winter fertilizer right on top of the snow this winter if you need to.
The larvae of several different types of beetles and moths live in the lawn's root system and chew on the roots. During hot weather the lawn cannot keep up with the damage these insects cause and the grass dies. There are several different methods of control.
- Apply an insecticide such as Bayer Complete Lawn Insect Granules or Bayer Multi Insect Granules. Most grub damage occurs during July and August so the lawn should be treated during this time. Sod webworms and some of the larger caterpillars, are usually active in May or in September. Sod webworms are easy to find and are sometimes easier to control because the lawn is not under as much heat stress that time of year.
- Mow the grass high; at least 2.5 to 3 inches tall. Beetles prefer to lay their eggs in short grass and tall grass withstands heat stress better.
- Water deeply but infrequently. Beetle eggs need moisture to hatch. They will dry out and die if they do not get enough water while they hatch.
- Stab the grubs with aerating sandals. You can buy strap-on plastic sandals with 1.5 inch spikes that will aerate your lawn and impale grubs as you walk over your lawn. Use this method in late-spring and summer, when the insects are near the surface.
Billbug larvae are the major lawn pest in July and August. These larvae will turn into a little black beetle when they mature. They love the heat and usually hatch next to a sidewalk or driveway but they can cause damage throughout the lawn. Unfortunately by the time you see the signs of their damage, the lawn is already brown. After treating the lawn with an insecticide, your lawn will continue to look worse for a while before it starts to improve. Your lawn will not start looking good again until the weather begins to cool and you can apply a fall fertilizer. You may have to re-seed or lay new sod in the damaged areas if you want your lawn to recover quickly.
One of the biggest problems in trying to keep trees and plants alive is diagnosing what is actually wrong with them. Many different problems may produce similar symptoms but the corrective solutions for may be quite different. Once the problem is known, the solution is usually easy to apply. In order to effectively diagnose tree and shrub problems, several questions should be asked and a little investigation should be performed.
- Determine the history of the plant and the surrounding area as best you can.
- Check other plants in the immediate vicinity and surrounding areas. Do they show similar symptoms?
- List the symptoms.
- Watch the progression of the symptoms.
- After determining the symptoms, examine the plant and surrounding areas closely for a suspected cause.
- Find out the possible solutions for the problem.
Stop by for a free Diagnosing Plant Problems handout that will give you some additional tips about solving your plant's problems. Some of the problems to watch for this summer are Verticillium Wilt and Heat Stress in maple trees; Blight diseases in Tomatoes, Petunias, Lilacs and Euonymus plants; Borer Damage, heat stress, and 2,4-D damage in quaking aspen.
Don't be afraid to give your flowers a little haircut during the summer to help make them more bushy and to help stimulate more flowers for the fall. Petunias, marigolds, geraniums, and most flowers benefit from a light summer pruning. After trimming your flowers be sure to give them a little extra fertilizer to make them flower again quickly. Fertilize them with Blooming and Rooting Fertilizer. This fertilizer contains all the right ingredients to make most flowers bloom again very fast. This fertilizer also helps many "hard-to-bloom" flowers such as Martha Washington geraniums, gerbera daisies, and hanging basket flowers, to produce more blossoms.
Except for the heavy pruning of fruit trees and roses, you can also trim nearly all ornamental shrubs and trees anytime during the year. Hedges benefit from several light prunings during the summer. Any deciduous tree or shrub that needs shaping can be pruned lightly during the summer. You can prune entire branches on pine trees, but do not just prune the tips of pine trees and most spruce trees during the summer. Prune the tips of pines and spruce in May.
Don't give up fertilizing your vegetable and flower gardens during the heat of the summer. They need regular fertilization to grow and bloom properly. Fertilize every six to eight weeks with J&L 16-16-8 Multipurpose Fertilizer. This provides a long lasting fertilizer. Stop fertilizing roses and other perennial flowers mid-August but continue fertilizing your vegetables and annual flowers until October.
If your flowers need a little extra boost, to make them bloom even a little better for a special occasion, fertilize them with Fertilome Blooming and Rooting Plant Food. Fertilize your flowers at least two or three weeks before that special occasion. This fertilizer is fast acting but needs to be re-applied at least a couple of times before that special occasion. Fertilizer Tip: Do not ever fertilize flowers during the heat of the day or if the plants are wilting. Fertilizer can burn, or kill, wilting plants. Always water your plants an hour or two before fertilizing them.
Spray your peach, nectarine, apricot, almond, and plum trees for the peach tree borer about the Fourth of July. Spray them every three to four weeks through September. You only need to spray the lower trunk and soil to control this borer; you do not need to spray the leaves or fruit. Use Bonide Borer Spray. Another pest of the peach and walnut trees that you need to spray this time of year is called the Walnut Husk Fly. This little fly lays eggs just inside the fruit's skin. A little worm hatches and eats the flesh making the fruit less desirable. Spray your trees with Bonide Captain Jack’s Spinosad, or Eight about August 1 and again August 15 to control this pest.
If you are going on vacation and don’t trust the teenager next door to give your plants the attention they need you may want to follow a few simple procedures to help your plants tough it out on their own:
Plan ahead. Don’t plant sensitive plants that are going to need extra TLC when you won’t be around to deliver it. Try to be back home before that bumper tomato and zucchini crop ripens.
Mulch garden beds up to 3 inches thick to help conserve moisture and keep the soil cool. Pull mulch back a few inches from the base of your plants so you don’t invite rot and disease.
Wrap unglazed terra-cotta pots in aluminum foil to keep moisture from evaporating through porous surfaces. Plastic containers do not need this attention.
Create a tropical micro-climate by placing bricks in your bathtub, filling the tub with water to just below the top of the bricks, and setting your indoor houseplants on top of the bricks.
Relocate outdoor container plants to a spot where they will receive afternoon shade and shelter from drying winds. Group your pots together in clusters to help increase humidity.
Install soaker hoses hooked up to a timer.
Trim flowers and shrubs lightly just before you leave. The plants will have fewer leaves to support while you are gone, and the plants will have some fresh new growth, and flowers, when you return home.
Root weevils are seldom seen, but their damage is very visible. This damage is one of the most common complaints of gardeners in this area. The characteristic notches that mysteriously appear around the edges of the leaves are a sure sign that these unseen pests are at work. Root weevils are a major pest on many ornamental plants and food crops in Utah. Plants particularly attacked by root weevils include euonymus, lilac, roses, raspberries, strawberries, rhododendron, privet, melons, cabbage, etc. Root weevil in both ornamental and edible plantings can be controlled by spraying, or dusting, registered insecticides at the proper time. The most important part of root weevil control is persistence. Don't give up!
You may also try using some microscopic beneficial nematodes around your plants next spring. These nematodes feed on soil insects, larvae and eggs. You will not notice a significant decrease in damage to the leaves the first year because the adult beetles do that damage. You will start to notice a significant decrease in leaf damage after one or two years as the adult population decreases because the eggs and larvae are destroyed.
Most spiders in your yard are beneficial. They trap and kill many insects that would otherwise love to cause problems for your flowers, shrubs and trees. Spiders make a natural insect trap and as long as they stay outside it is to your benefit to leave them alone. Spiders may actually kill more insects than you can kill by spraying.
However, once a spider decides to invade your home it becomes a nuisance pest. Most nuisance pests are very hard to control ,such as box elder bugs, flies, ants, and millipedes. Spiders are no different; they are hard to control. The best control for these nuisance pests is persistence. Chemical insecticides will kill all insects that come in contact with the spray. However, there is usually not a very long residual effect to control nuisance pests. If you can prevent these nuisance pests from entering your house, their control will be much simpler. Make sure your screens are in good condition. Caulk around doors and windows. Spray the outside foundation of your house, with a pesticide, regularly in the fall; spiders and other insects are looking for warmth and protection from the weather.
Once spiders enter your house, control is a little harder. Regular applications of an insecticide inside your house may help to control some pests. Vacuuming the unwanted pests is also a safe way to eliminate them. Perhaps one of the best ways to control spiders inside your house is to use spider traps.
Most spiders inside your home are not dangerous, they are just a nuisance. Two spiders are dangerous. The Black Widow spider and the Aggressive House Spider (Hobo Spider) are two spiders that can cause serious injury. The Hobo Spider Elimination Kit (a spider Trap) traps and kills all different kinds of spiders; not just the bad ones. This kit contains five pre-baited cards that attracts and kills all types of spiders. You can put spider traps in several different areas of your house to catch spiders; it is an excellent way to control the unwanted spiders inside your home.
Spidermites are a very troublesome pest to marigolds, roses, junipers, alberta spruce, and many other plants. Spidermites are not an insect; they belong to the spider family so many insecticides do not control them effectively. Spidermites are so tiny that they cannot be seen with the naked eye. The best way to test for spidermites is to place a white piece of paper under the leaves of the affected plant. Shake the plant vigorously and watch the dust that falls on the paper. If any of the dust particles start to move, your plants have spidermites.
Controlling spidermites is a major problem for most homeowners. Mite damage is costly and controlling them is difficult, time consuming, and expensive. Spidermites feed on plant tissue by sucking the sap out of the leaves and destroying the chlorophyll. The damage first appears as stipples. As feeding continues the leaves turn silver or yellow. If left uncontrolled, dense webbing will appear and the plant will defoliate and die. Even light infestations may adversely affect the appearance of both the foliage and the blossoms.
Spidermites thrive in hot climates: they are flourishing this summer! The female can lay up to a hundred eggs in her 30 day life span. One female, in one month, through successive generations, can generate a population of millions. Spidermites do not always die in the winter. In cold weather, spidermites can survive under leaves and in other sheltered places. When warm conditions return, female spidermites resume eating plants and reproducing new spidermites.
Spidermites are a stubborn pest. They are difficult to detect, very adaptable, and they are known to develop resistance to chemical controls quickly. Some pesticides that give adequate control may burn or kill leaves on some plants during hot weather, which makes control even more difficult. Other products leave a residue that makes them unavailable for use on edible plants.
The most difficult part is that spidermites feed on the underside of leaves. Good control is difficult unless the spray comes in direct contact with the mites, on the underside of the leaf. A high pressure sprayer, (hose sprayer) is more likely to make the leaves move enough for the chemical to come in contact with the mite than an aerosol container, or a small trigger sprayer.
Please stop by for more information about spidermites and choosing the best control for your problem.
Do you ever get a Mystery Squash? Maybe a big, round, dark-green squash with yellow spots scattered over the entire surface?
Squash plants cross very easily. The fruit may resemble the mother plant (the plant the cross is growing on) or it may resemble the father plant (the plant where the pollen came from) or it may be something totally different. As long as both parents are edible you can eat the fruit without any problem although it may have an unusual taste because of the genetics involved. If, however, one of the parents could have been a gourd do not eat the fruit because some gourds can make people sick.
Composting is an excellent way to make your own organic materials from your gardens. However, many gardeners experience a few problems with their compost piles. Composting is pretty simple once you learn how. We have a composting handout available so stop by to pick one up.
What can be composted:
Leaves, Cornstalks, Straw, Hay, Grass Clippings, Chipped wood, Wood ash (wet), Weeds, Manure, Fruits, Vegetables, Coffee grounds, Tea bags, and most organic products in the yard.
What cannot be composted:
Charcoal and Coal ash, Large quantities of Pet Manure, Treated lumber, Large branches, Diseased plants, Mature weeds (with seeds), Weeds that spread through runners (morning glory, quack grass, bermuda grass), Meat, Bones, Dairy products, Salad dressing, Cooking oil, Peanut butter, Grease, and other Animal products.
- Problem: Strong odor
Solution: Turn the compost pile more frequently.
- Problem: Too Wet
Solution: Add dry grass or straw. Turn compost more frequently.
- Problem: Not composting but wet.
Solution: Add Compost Maker, grass clippings, and Nitrogen. Turn compost more frequently.
- Problem: Not composting and dry.
Solution: Add more water and Compost Maker.
- Problem: Ammonia Smell
Solution: Add dry leaves, straw or sawdust. Turn compost more frequently.
Midsummer is the season of abundance, when gardens overflow with tomatoes, peppers, squash, beans, cucumbers, and other warm-season rewards. With all this bounty, it’s hard to think of planting still more crops. But June through August is the time to get started if you want to enjoy a long second harvest that will bring fresh food to your table through late-autumn and even into early-winter.
A fall planting offers several advantages, not the least of which is the fact that the crisp weather of fall actually improves the taste and quality of many vegetables. Green beans become more tender, Cauliflower more creamy, and greens such as Kale and Spinach sweeter still. Brussels Sprouts and Peas are barely worth bothering with until a good frost or two have sweetened them up.
Some gardeners shy away from growing plants in containers because of endless "failure" stories buzzing in their heads. Container plantings are not difficult, but you do need to keep a few things in mind--including selection of container, type of planting mix, feeding and watering needs. These are the variables differentiating growing plants in the ground from growing them in containers.
First of all, different types of containers will lead to different types of watering needs. For example, terracotta pots are probably the most porous of the clay pots. This porosity allows the soil to dry out more quickly. Glazed pots are next in line. The glaze on the outside of the pot actually helps to keep moisture in more than a non-glazed clay pot would. Thick cement containers probably fall in line together with the glazed pots. Finally, there are plastic and some of the new composite material containers. These containers will hold the moisture far longer than the other pots.
The soil mix itself should breathe and should be light and airy. We recommend using an all organic potting soil, such as Gardener's Gold Organic Potting Soil, for most plants. But be sure to use the right type of potting soil for your plant. Most plants do fine in normal potting soil, but the reason you'll see things like "cactus mix" on the shelves is that some plants have special needs.
Because plants in containers have a limited amount of soil area, they will need to be fed more often than plants in the ground. We recommend feeding most plants every two weeks with a liquid or water-soluble plant food, such asFertilome Blooming and Rooting Fertilizer, or every 3 to 4 months with a dry fertilizer like Osmocote All Purpose Fertilizer. Again, some plants have different needs, so adjust as necessary for your own container garden.
Plants in containers can often suffer from dehydration, especially in the summer months of the year. Water those that need moist soil frequently, especially if your container is made of a more porous material. Drought-tolerant plants will like a pot that dries out quickly, but a water-needy plant will want to have consistently moist (but not wet) conditions.
If you let your potting soil dry out too much, the root ball will shrink and the water will run straight down the sides and out of the bottom of your container. If this happens, you will need to leave the water dripping into your container for a long enough time to rehydrate the potting soil. If the container is small enough, dunk it into a big bucket of water and let it sit there for a few minutes until the root ball expands again and properly fills the pot.
Container gardening is a wonderful way to add splashes of plants and color in all areas of your outdoor rooms, and for those with only small patios, container gardening is the only way to go. Just remember not to treat container plants exactly like in-ground plantings, and you'll be fine.
What does the term "systemic" mean on a chemical label?
"Systemic" is a term that refers to a chemical that can be absorbed by a plant through the foliage or root system.
- Systemic insecticides not only kill insects and disease on contact but also remain in the plant and kill insects when they feed on the foliage.
- Systemic fungicides remain in and on the plant longer to not only kill disease on contact put provide a layer of protection to prevent future attacks for some time.
- With weed control sprays, the chemical is absorbed by the plant all the way down to the roots, completely killing the weed.
Most systemic products should not be used on any edible plants or crops.
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Gardening can be a great form of healthful exercise. Depending on the intensity of your garden work, you can get quite a good workout. All that bending, stretching and lifting will keep your body limber and muscles toned. But when done incorrectly it can lead to injury.
Before starting any gardening activity, consider stretching for a few minutes to warm up your muscles and prepare them for the work ahead. And if you take any extended break, do a few more stretches before returning to the task at hand. Also, don't double-dig a whole garden if you've not been exercising regularly.
It's also important to remember to replenish your body fluids while working outside. It's easy to get dehydrated on a hot day while enjoying the sunlight if you don't make a point of replenishing the fluids your body is burning off.
Speaking of that sunlight, make sure to apply plenty of sun block to exposed and unprotected parts of your body before starting your gardening activity. While sun visors will help shade the front of your face, a wider brimmed sunhat hat will also shade the sides and, more important, your ears.
Don't forget that garden safety is another important aspect of healthy gardening. Wear appropriate clothing, safety goggles and ear protection if you plan on using power equipment. Using tools with padded and/or spring loaded handles will reduce stiffness in your arms and hands. Wear knee pads or use a knee cushion or kneeler seat if you plan on spending a lot of time on your knees, and wear gloves to protect your hands.
When using a stepladder, be sure its height is appropriate for the type of job you are doing so you aren't tempted to stand beyond the safety step. Finally, avoid spraying or dusting plants on windy days to reduce the chance of absorbing or exposing your body to harmful chemicals. Keeping these things in mind will help you enjoy a safe and healthy time in your garden. So be safe and have fun!
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A backyard retreat means something different for each of us. It could be a quiet corner in the shade with a comfortable chair for reading, or a chaise longue in the sun. Perhaps it's a table for two for quiet dining or a large table near an outdoor kitchen or fire pit. Whatever your needs and desires, it helps to include other features such as a bubbling fountain, koi pond, or trees and flowers in a container arrangement.
Most of these ideas can be incorporated in part, no matter what the special area is for this special retreat. It could be a balcony, tiny patio garden or large backyard. Everyone can have a private customized retreat.
When designing a garden retreat, first take time to envision your dream retreat. A multitude of ideas should come pouring into your mind as you begin to envision your future garden retreat. If you are coming up blank, consider what your answers are to these questions:
1. Do you want a retreat for serenity after hectic days at work; do you want a space designed for entertaining?
2. How much space do you have? Is this a patio transformation, a small grotto along the side of your house, or the entire backyard?
3. Whatever your desire, next consider what "look" you would like--be it tropical, formal, informal cottage garden, or Asian.
4. Color and texture choices: Color and textures can be added in many different ways: through the plant foliage, fabrics, walls and flooring (you could paint them!), pottery, statuary, garden art and more.
5. Sound: Quiet water, bubbling water, splashing water, birds singing and/or leaves rustling in the breeze?
6. Water feature: Do you want a fountain, pool, pond, pond with waterfall?
There is much to consider when planning your very own backyard retreat. Join us at here at the garden center. Wander through our fountains, pottery and plants--and you'll be sure to have your own backyard retreat in short order.
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Watering properly is one of the best ways to ensure you have a beautiful lawn and garden, and will help lower your water bill as well. Here are a few water-wise tips that can make a big impact on water savings and plant health.
* First off, consider converting your overhead irrigation to drip irrigation for all non-lawn areas if you haven't already done so. This concentrates the water where it needs to be (around the plant root ball) while eliminating excess runoff and evaporation.
* Water early in the morning when the temperatures are cooler and the sun isn't as intense. Thus, more water will penetrate your plants instead of evaporating into the air. The best time is between 4:00 a.m. and 8:00 a.m.
* When hand watering, make sure to place your nozzle near the base of the plant instead of above the plant where water is wasted wetting the foliage.
* Water lawns more deeply instead of more frequently as it gets hotter. You should have your timers set to water only until your lawn reaches the point of runoff. After that no additional water can be absorbed. Most lawns can get by on 20-30 minutes of water every three days. They may not look as good but they will survive, and it will be better for them in the long run. Deeper watering encourages the roots to go down further to chase the water which results in less heat stress on the roots.
* Raise the mowing height on your mower. Taller grass cools and shelters the roots below, helping to reduce the need for more frequent watering.
* Add a granulated soil conditioner to the lawn to help break up compacted soil particles and aerate your soil, allowing roots to penetrate deeper into the soil. This also helps the lawn become more resistant to pests, disease and weeds.
* Cover open areas around plants and trees with a two-inch layer of mulch to reduce evaporation, keep the soil moist and cool, and to help prevent weeds.
* Make sure to pull weeds as needed to reduce competition for water, and feed your garden at least quarterly to help your plants stay healthy and strong. Use a plant food with lower, slow-release nitrogen to prevent rampant, soft, fleshy new growth that uses lots of water.
* Add a granulated soil polymer to potting soil when planting in containers. It expands when watered, holding water in the soil longer.
* Leave a two-inch space between the top of the soil and the rim of your container so that there is enough room for holding water without its flowing down the sides of your pot. Place a layer of mulch or bark on top of the soil to help retain moisture.
By incorporating these garden tips every year--year-round and not just in a dry period--your garden will not only be set up to survive dry conditions, but will also use less water all year round, thereby helping to prevent water shortages.
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What You'll Need:
- 1 pound fusilli, cooked and drained
- 2 cups fresh asparagus, diagonally cut into 1/2-inch pieces
- 1 cup fresh green peas
- 2 teaspoons olive oil
- Cooking spray
- 1 medium yellow bell pepper, cut into julienne strips
- 1 small red onion, thinly sliced
- 4 garlic cloves, minced
- 2 cups fresh cherry tomatoes, cut in half
- 1-1/4 cups chicken broth
- 2/3 cup whipping cream
- 1 teaspoon salt
- 1/2 teaspoon crushed red pepper
- 1/2 cup grated fresh parmesan cheese
- 1/2 cup thinly sliced fresh basil
Step by Step:
- Cook pasta according to package directions, adding asparagus and peas during the last 2 minutes of cooking.
- Drain and place in a large bowl.
- Heat oil in a large nonstick skillet coated with cooking spray over medium-high heat.
- Add bell pepper, onion and garlic; sauté for 5 minutes.
- Add tomatoes; sauté for 1 minute.
- Stir in broth, whipping cream, salt and red pepper; cook for 2 minutes or until thoroughly heated.
- Add tomato mixture to pasta mixture; toss to coat.
- Sprinkle with cheese and basil. Serve immediately.
Bountiful Weather Forecast
September 22, 2017
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Bountiful, UT 84010
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