I am determined to be cheerful and happy in whatever situation I may find myself.
For I have learned that the greater part of our misery or unhappiness is determined not by our circumstance but by our disposition.
- Martha Washington
Anyone who thinks pansies are delicate little flowers is mistaken.
They are some of the toughest flowers around, able to take a beating all winter and then come out swinging with the first crack of spring.
Pansies are hybrids in the viola family.
They're short lived perennials, but most people treat them as annuals.
It's best to plant them in the fall, so they can establish themselves and put out some flowers before winter arrives.
Many times, pansies will flower through the winter, but a harsh winter will batter them.
They can look pretty sad during the coldest of times, but they're just saving their energy, and at the first sign of warm weather they will come back to life.
They will grow well through the spring, and eventually burn out with the heat of summer.
There are many varieties of pansies, with varying size, color, and hardiness.
Small to medium sized varieties tend to overwinter better, but some of the newer large varieties are much hardier than they used to be.
It's best to consult an expert in your garden center to find the best match for your garden.
As far as planting goes, there are a few things to consider.
You'll want to make sure there is good drainage, but that the soil will retain some moisture.
If your bed tends to be soggy, adding some sand might be a good idea.
A layer of mulch on top of the soil will help retain moisture and insulate the roots.
It also helps to consider where the sun is during the winter, which is to the south.
If you wish to plant pansies for the winter along the north side of your house, give them some room, so they have a chance to get a little sunlight.
If you want to get really creative, you can plant your pansies on top of spring flowering bulbs, leaving you a nice, multicolored display when spring comes around.
You can also plant different varieties of pansies together to mix up the colors, or plant large swaths of the same variety for blocks of vibrant color in the spring.
Plant them 6-8" apart to give them some room to grow, and remove spent flowers to encourage new ones.
As fall starts to set in, many of us are preparing for winter.
Winter is a favorite of some people, but most of us see it as that bleak time between now and spring.
Winter is death, and as gardeners, we just can't wait until spring to see the world reborn.
Tulips and daffodils are the flagships of spring.
With a little planning and some elbow grease in the fall, they will announce the arrival of warmer weather with color and vigor.
Planting bulbs in the fall is essential if you'd like these flowers in the spring, as they need to be thoroughly chilled to grow into flowers.
In some warmer climates, people chill them in the refrigerator, but it is best to put them in the ground and let nature do the work.
Anytime in September, October, or November is a good time to plant them here in Utah.
The important part is to do it before the ground freezes.
Planting earlier will help them along later, as it will give some time for them to establish roots, leaving your bulbs stronger and more ready to absorb the nutrients in the soil.
Flower bulbs are perhaps the easiest of all flowers to plant, grow, and have bloom.
It is almost impossible to make a mistake planting bulbs because all the nutrients the flowers need to bloom are already stored inside the bulb before you buy them.
The hardest part about planting bulbs is deciding which bulbs you like best, and knowing when to stop buying more bulbs.
Please read our Planting Fall Bulbs for more information.
These are the four basic steps to planting bulbs:
- Dig a hole: Approximately three times as tall as your bulbs are.
If your bulbs are 1" tall, dig a 3" hole.
We recommend digging a wide hole and planting about a dozen bulbs in there.
This will make them really pop when they flower.
- Place the bulbs in the hole: Place the bulbs root side down, close together, but not touching.
A spacing of about an inch will do, but you can get away with a little wider or a little closer.
More room allows the bulbs more room to grow.
- Add bulb fertilizer: Bulb fertilizer comes in organic or nonorganic varieties, depending on your preference.
Follow the directions on the package.
- Fill the hole with dirt, and then add a layer of mulch to insulate.
An inch or three will do.
Voila! With that task accomplished you can go back to your pumpkin-flavored beverage.
In a few short months, you'll have some beautiful flowers to herald the return of warmer weather.
Please read our 'Planting Fall Bulbs' handout for more information
Trees are dropping their leaves and it is important to prevent leaves from laying on your lawn very long.
Leaves will shade the grass and can even kill the lawn during the winter.
In addition, leaf cover stimulates a winter lawn disease known as snow mold.
The easiest way to dispose of these unwanted leaves is to simply mow them, bag them, and use them as compost in your gardens.
Continue to mow your lawn at 1.5" to 2" long until the last time you mow your lawn for the year; then cut it as short as your lawn mower will go.
Many lawn weeds are either dead, or they are starting to die right now.
Crabgrass, foxtail and spurge all start to grow in the summer.
They produce seeds and then die in the fall.
However, perennial weeds are still growing, such as dandelions, morning glory, and clover.
Bonide Weedbeater Ultra is a good spray to kill these types of weeds in your lawn.
Weedbeater Ultra will not kill any of the 'grassy-type weeds'; it just kills the 'broadleaf-type weeds' including Oxalis.
Oxalis is the weed that looks like a small reddish-purple clover, and it has yellow flowers.
Oxalis has been a huge problem this summer in many lawns.
It is very hard to control the grassy weeds (crabgrass, foxtail grass, watergrass, barnyard grass, etc.) in the fall.
If you have these types of grassy weeds just remove as many as possible, to reduce the amount of seeds for next year.
Apply Crabgrass Control in the spring to prevent these types of weeds.
If you have both grassy weeds and spurge, you may need to apply Crabgrass Control twice next year: once in mid-to-late April; and again in mid-to-late June.
Most crabgrass controls only last 60 to 90 days.
October is usually a good time to fertilize your lawn.
However, you may want to postpone your winter fertilization until mid to late-November if the weather stays hot and dry.
Fertilizer stimulates grass to grow faster, which in turn makes the lawn require more water.
A fertilized lawn will struggle and turn brown faster in the fall than a non-fertilized lawn, unless a consistent source of water is available.
Fertilize your lawn with either IFA Fall & Winter Lawn Food or Dr.
Earth Lawn Fertilizer as soon as mother nature starts supplying a consistent source of water for your lawn this fall, or even this winter.
Apply your fall and winter fertilizer right on top of a light snow, and it will be watered in for you.
Please read our 'Fall Lawn Care Guide' for more information
Don't fertilize roses in the fall.
Roses need time to 'harden off' before winter arrives.
Roses growing too fast in the fall have new, 'soft' growth.
This 'soft' growth is prone to winter injury while the older, 'hard' growth will tolerate the winter weather.
Reduce the amount of water you apply to your roses this fall, again to help them 'harden off' before winter arrives.
Don't pick rose flowers any more this fall.
Let the blossoms mature into rose hips.
Hip formation also helps the rose bush to 'harden off' for winter.
Prune your rose canes (except climbing roses and shrub roses) down to three or four feet high after the leaves completely freeze this winter.
The only reason to prune roses in the fall is to prevent the snow from breaking the canes.
Wait until spring to do your major rose pruning and shaping.
In the spring, after the danger of frost is past, prune your roses to 14" to 20" tall.
Mulch your roses to protect the roots from severely cold temperatures.
Let the ground and the roots freeze first, to become dormant, before covering them.
The best way to mulch roses is to pile six inches of leaves, Soil Pep, Small Bark, or garden soil around each bush.
Don't use grass clippings to mulch roses.
Grass clippings can create a fungus problem that can damage your rose bushes during the winter.
Please read our 'Rose Care' handout for more information.
Some plants are much more 'winter hardy' than others.
Many plants that thrive in California and Oregon, without any special winter care, will struggle and die if they are not properly protected during the winter in Utah.
Conversely, many plants that are not supposed to survive the winter in Utah may grow and flourish if they receive the correct winter care.
Some plants survive through several winters without any protection, and then unexpectedly die from no apparent reason.
Some plants growing in one area of the yard require much more winter protection than the exact same plant growing in another area of the same yard.
Why are some plants able to survive cold winter temperatures and others do not survive?
Four reasons: Winter Acclimation, Winter Hardiness, Winter De-acclimation, and the Actual Winter Weather Conditions.
Planning ahead and preparing your plants for winter can help minimize some of the factors that might otherwise damage or kill your plants.
Please read our 'Winter Plant Care handout for more information.
Dry Winters - Remember Last Winter!
Dry winters cause more winter injury in plants than winters with heavy snowfall.
Snow is one of the best natural insulators that plants have.
Snow cover protects plants from extreme temperatures (both from heat and from cold).
Snow cover also helps maintain moisture in the soil for plants to use during the winter.
If mother nature doesn't provide this necessary insulation, you will need to provide something to protect your tender plants.
Evergreen plants, (plants that do not lose their leaves in the winter), use quite a bit of moisture each winter.
Broad-leaved evergreens (rhododendron, laurel, Oregon grape, etc.) are most affected by moisture loss because of their large leaf surface.
Junipers and pine trees may also suffer during long, dry periods but they are much more tolerant of drought conditions.
When the sun shines on the leaf of a plant, the leaf temperature can get as high as 70 degrees yet the root system remains frozen.
As water evaporates from the leaf during the warm temperatures, the plant cannot replace it because the roots are still in frozen soil.
The leaves may 'freeze dry'.
If too many of the leaves freeze-dry, the entire plant could also die.
If the weather does not naturally provide enough water for your flowers, trees, and shrubs, then you need to water plants occasionally during the dry spells.
A little extra water during a dry winter will help keep your plants alive for spring.
Please read our 'Winter Plant Care' handout for more information.
Most spiders in your yard are beneficial.
They trap and eat many insects that would otherwise love to cause problems for you, your flowers, shrubs and trees.
Spiders effectively control flies, crickets, other spiders, dust mites within your house, and many houseplant pests.
Spiders make a natural insect trap and as long as they stay outside it is to your benefit to leave them alone.
Spiders may actually kill more insects than you can kill by spraying.
However, once a spider decides to invade your home it becomes a nuisance pest.
Even a tiny little spider trapped in the bathtub can compel an otherwise self-assured person to scream for the nearest designated spider killer in the family to come and take care of the problem.
Most spiders inside your home are not dangerous, they are a nuisance.
Two spiders are dangerous.
The Black Widow spider and the Aggressive House Spider (Hobo Spider) are two spiders that can cause serious injury.
The Hobo Spider Elimination Kit (a spider Trap) traps and kills all different kinds of spiders; not just the bad ones.
This kit contains five pre-baited cards that attract and trap spiders.
You can put spider traps in several different areas of your house to catch spiders; it is an excellent way to control the unwanted spiders in your home.
Most nuisance pests are very hard to control, such as boxelder bugs, flies, ants, and millipedes.
Spiders are no different, they are hard to control.
The best control for these nuisance pests is persistence.
Chemical insecticides will kill any spiders that come in contact with the spray.
However, there is usually not a very long residual effect to control these types of pests.
If you can prevent these spiders from entering your house the control is much simpler.
Make sure your screens are in good condition.
Caulk around doors and windows.
Spray the outside foundation of your house in the fall; spiders are looking for warmth and protection from the weather.
Once spiders and other insects enter your house control is a little harder.
Regular applications of an insecticide inside your house may help to control some pests.
Ant, Roach & Spider Spray is available in both an aerosol spray and a trigger spray.
Use this type of spray around the baseboards and wall.
An Indoor Insect Fogger is another fairly safe way to eliminate some of these unwanted pests.
Vacuuming these unwanted pests is another safe way to eliminate them Perhaps one of the best and safest ways to control these nuisance pests is to use a Trap.
Many different types of traps are available and safe.
They will trap many different types of insects for several months.
Next time you see a spider just repeat this sentence:
"Spiders are good guys.
Spiders are good guys".
Please read our 'Spiders - Good or Bad?' handout for more information.
We recommend that you do not fertilize deciduous trees and shrubs in the fall.
However, if you have a pine tree, or a spruce tree, that appears to be under stress, go ahead and fertilize it with a tree or shrub fertilizer that contains iron, such as Dr.
Earth All Purpose Fertilizer.
Fall fertilizer does not stimulate new growth, or harm pine trees, the same way it can damage deciduous plants.
Be sure to water your pine trees occasionally during the fall, at least until the snow begins to fall.
Evergreen plants need more water and a little more attention than deciduous plants.
Fall is the best time to move plants.
Transplant deciduous plants when they are dormant; after they drop their leaves.
Pine trees and shrubs can be transplanted a little earlier than deciduous plants; but it is still a good rule of thumb to wait until leaves drop off surrounding deciduous plants before moving pine trees.
Each September and October we receive many calls from gardeners concerned about the lower and inner needles of their pine trees turning yellow and brown.
Do not be alarmed if your pine trees, yews, junipers, and arborvitae plants shed their innermost needles.
This is natural each fall; the inside needles will turn yellow and then drop off the branch.
More needles will turn yellow and drop off a plant after a stressful summer than after a normal summer.
Don't be too surprised if a lot of needles turn yellow and drop off your plants in the fall because of hot, dry, summer weather.
Don't be too concerned, Fall Needle Drop is just a natural part of gardening.
Contrary to the name 'evergreen', these trees do not keep their needles indefinitely.
Pine trees only keep an individual needle for two or three years.
After that time period the tree stops feeding that needle and the needle dies and falls off the tree.
Each spring a pine tree grows a new set of needles and each fall the tree sheds its oldest set of needles.
Some years a pine tree may shed two sets of old needles making the needle drop even more evident.
Needle drop in newly planted trees, and in trees under stress, is more noticeable than in the older and larger trees.
However, all pine trees lose some of their needles each fall, including Austrian Pine, Scotch Pine, Mugho Pine, Blue Spruce, Alberta Spruce, Junipers, and Yews.
Please read our 'Pine Tree Fall Needle Drop' handout for more information.
The peach tree borer often takes the rap for more than its fair share of trouble.
Most of the time when you see sap on the trunk of a peach tree you automatically assume the tree has a borer.
You are right, some of the time.
Two other problems that can cause sap to ooze out of the trunk of stone fruits are Bacterial Canker and Physical Injury, both of which need to be treated differently than peach tree borer.
Bacterial canker, sometimes known as Gummosis, produces sunken, dark lesions that allow sap to ooze from the affected area.
This disease can kill your tree if you do not treat it.
Remove the sap and scrub the entire area with Copper Fungicide.
It is very important that you treat this problem this fall; don't wait until spring.
If you see this problem during the spring or summer you should treat it every three or four weeks until the symptoms go away; make sure it is not just damage from the peach tree borer!
Kids climbing peach trees, or extra weight loads from ripening fruit, can cause physical stress in the crotch of the tree.
If enough stress is applied, some of the bark can separate and allow sap to ooze from the wound.
It is not uncommon to see sap oozing from several crotches in peach trees after harvesting peaches or after a wind storm moves the heavy laden branches.
Coryneum Blight, or Shothole Fungus, is a disease that infects Peach, Nectarine, Apricot, Plum, Almond, and Cherry trees.
Flowering Cherry and Flowering Plum trees are also susceptible to Coryneum Blight.
Coryneum Blight is a very serious problem that can kill trees within a few years.
This disease needs to be prevented rather than cured.
Spray your entire tree with Copper Fungicide as soon as 90% of the leaves drop off the tree.
Spray your tree again, with copper, just before the blossoms begin to open next spring.
These two applications of copper are the most important way to help prevent this disease.
You may also need to spray during the spring, with other fungicides, if the symptoms are severe.
Copper Fungicide can also help prevent leaf spot in Quaken Aspen and blight in Lilacs and Burning Bush plants.
Please read our 'Coryneum Blight' handout' for more information.
As fall fades into winter, yards and gardens should have been cleaned up and plants should have gone dormant.
What about the insect pests? Most insects will be protected and will be ready to reappear next season.
Many common insect pests actually overwinter in plant debris left in the garden, so it does pay to clean the garden at the end of the season.
For example, cabbageworms that may have infested your cabbage and broccoli plants during the summer spend the winter in the pupa stage in plant debris left in the garden.
Cucumber beetles overwinter as adult beetles in the same debris.
The tomato hornworm also spends the winter as a pupa in plant debris.
Lawn grubs safely rest as a larvae in the soil just below the frostline in the soil.
Rotovating the soil helps to kill all these pests.
Other nuisance insects (boxelder bugs, snails, centipedes, earwigs, millipedes) overwinter in sheltered areas such as under plastic weedcloth left in the gardens, in the siding of your house or in a pile of firewood.
These insects may also become active during the warm spells of winter.
Some caterpillars overwinter on the actual tree they eat during the summer.
Eggs are deposited in the cracks in the bark or in the crotches of branches, ready to hatch next spring.
Aphids also deposit their eggs in these same areas.
You may see a willow branch completely engulfed with large black aphids this fall or an apple tree completely covered with the cottony covering of the woolly apple aphid.
Spend some time this fall controlling these pests and you may save yourself some time and money next spring.
Spray the trunk of all the trees you know that have these insects.
Dormant oil is a safe organic insecticide that effectively kills both larvae and eggs, if applied at the right time.
Nothing kills eggs that are completely ready for the winter weather, but if you spray before the eggs are ready for winter, or just as the eggs are starting to hatch in the spring, you can have some pretty good control.
Most borers that attack trees and shrubs spend the winter as larvae inside the host tree.
They spend much of the warm weather, during the winter, tunneling around and eating the tree.
Firewood is a common item harvested in the mountains and brought home to use during the winter.
Along with the firewood, you are probably bringing a few unwanted pests with you.
Most of these insects will not be a problem, such as ants, spiders, and some beetles.
These insects are a nuisance, but they do not bother your plants or your house.
However, some insects brought from the mountains can be very devastating to the trees in your yard.
Bark beetles and borers may find trees in your yard or neighborhood delicious and will take up residence in those trees.
To prevent bringing the bark beetles home with you be sure to only harvest 2 to 3 year old firewood.
Do not bring the fresh firewood home.
Many harmful insects live in the living trees, and in the trees that have recently died.
These insects are probably what killed the tree.
If you do bring infested wood home try to burn it before the insects have time to develop enough to leave the wood.
If you cannot burn it soon enough, you can tarp the wood pile and spray a chemical on the wood to kill the insects.
Chemical sprays may produce toxic fumes, if you burn the wood before the chemical dissipates.
Be sure your fireplace will handle these types of fumes before burning the treated wood.
The Amaryllis (Hippeastrum) is truly a spectacular plant that has become a conversation piece for the indoor gardener.
Amaryllis Bulbs originated in the tropical areas of South America but they have been grown and hybridized throughout the world.
The Amaryllis bulb is a perennial bulb, but it must be taken inside during the winter in cold climates.
With proper care the Amaryllis bulb can produce spectacular blossoms for several years.
Amaryllis bulbs vary in size.
As a rule, larger bulbs produce more stems and flowers than smaller bulbs.
Small bulbs (26cm - 28cm size) bulbs produce one or two flower stems with three to five flowers on each stem.
Medium bulbs (34cm size) bulbs produce two to four flower stems with four to five flowers on each stem.
Large bulbs (40cm size) bulbs produce three to five flower stems with four to five flowers on each stem.
Amaryllis bulbs produce an abundance of flowers and make a real show!
We have more than fifteen different varieties and colors available each fall.
Beginning in October, we try to have some Amaryllis bulbs available all winter until at least Valentines Day.
Stop by, or download our Amaryllis Care Handout to learn more about these wonder winter flowers.
Please read our 'Amaryllis Care' handout for more information
Paperwhite bulbs are popular indoor plants for winter and for the holiday season.
Unlike other bulbs, paperwhites don't require a chilling period, so forcing them is as easy as putting the bulbs in water and waiting.
The fragrant flowers bloom about 3 to 6 weeks after planting, for almost instant gratification.
Put a layer of gravel in a decorative bowl.
The bowl needs to be at least 5" to 6" deep.
Arrange bulbs and fill the bowl with gravel.
The gravel may be any size or color.
Be sure to completely cover the bulbs with gravel to prevent the bulbs from tipping.
A little charcoal mixed with the gravel will help keep the water fresh.
Add enough water to only touch the base of the bulbs.
Do not let the bulbs sit in water.
Check the water level often - too little will dry the roots, and too much will invite decay.
Keep cool (50 to 55 degrees) and dark until top growth begins.
When shoots are about 2" tall bring pots into light to develop flower stalks.
Tall plants need support.
Bright light and cool temperatures (60 to 70 degrees) will help keep narcissi compact.
You can start pots of paper whites every couple of weeks, for a continuous display throughout the winter.
Discard Paperwhite Bulbs when they are finished blooming.
They are not winter hardy outdoors.
They will take two or three years of TLC to bloom again if you do try to keep them.
Please read our 'Forcing Paperwhite Narcissus' handout for more information about forcing these fun winter bulbs.
Fall is a good time to get your yard into shape for winter and spring.
Trim your "summer flowering" shrubs (mock orange, potentilla, spiraea, etc.) after the leaves drop off but don't trim your "spring flowering" shrubs (forsythia, quince, lilac, etc.) until after they bloom next spring.
If you prune your "spring flowering" shrubs now, you will be removing most of the flower buds for next spring.
Remember, don't prune roses this time of year, wait until April.
You can prune some shade trees this fall, after the leaves drop.
Maples, birch, willows and many other shade trees respond well to fall pruning because they 'bleed sap' if you prune them in the spring.
Don't prune fruit trees in the fall unless you absolutely have to; wait until early spring to prune fruit trees, just before they start to grow (or anytime after January).
Wait to prune flowering trees until after they finish blooming in the spring so you can enjoy their blossoms.
Be sure to give all of your hedges, topiary plants, and upright junipers one last trimming for the year.
This final touch up can make a big difference in how they will look during the winter.
How many of us remember growing up, lying under a shade tree with our back against the trunk, chewing on a piece of grass, reading a book or just sleeping?
In addition to great memories, trees bring beauty to all landscapes, and the right tree provides shade to your home, creating a cooling insulation from hot summer days.
Evergreen or deciduous, many shade trees also have spectacular flower color, while others are better known for their foliage color or texture interest.
When planting your tree, consider how it might provide the maximum shade effect upon your home.
A shade tree planted on the east side of your home will block the heat from the morning sun.
Planting on the west and/or southwest side of your home shields the hot afternoon sun.
And finally, a tree planted on the south side of your home can provide year-round sunblock protection.
All three examples will help to keep your home cooler in the summertime.
If you select a deciduous tree, you will benefit in the winter from the opposite of the sun-shielding effect.
Minus the foliage, the sun's rays can shine through the empty branches and help you warm the inside of your home.
You certainly can't argue with that!
Along with the energy benefits, shade trees provide beauty to your landscape year-round.
They offer habitats to birds, squirrels and other backyard urban creatures.
Trees increase the value of our homes and the beauty of our neighborhoods.
They also give back oxygen to our environment.
If you choose a deciduous tree, pick one with majestic winter form.
When you plant your shade tree, do not plant it too close to your home, patio or walls.
Remember, the trees that we have mentioned all grow to heights of 30-50 feet and taller, which means they will also have a good spread and substantial root systems.
So come on in, and our staff of nursery experts will help you pick out the perfect shade tree(s) for your home.
Then get ready to plop yourself under your new tree, cross your legs, pull your hat down over your eyes and ZZZZZZZ.
|Pot Up Herbs For Winter Use
You don't have to make do with dried or frozen herbs just because it is winter.
Some herbs, such as mint, chives, parsley, and marjoram, can be potted up to grow indoors or in the greenhouse for a fresh supply of winter leaves.
The supply will be modest, but no less welcome.
- Mint is an easy plant to force indoors, or in a cold frame or greenhouse.
Lift an established clump to provide a supply of roots to pot up.
- Be careful to select only pieces with healthy leaves (diseased leaves are common by the end of the season).
You can pull pieces off by hand or cut them with a knife.
- Plant the roots in a pot if you want to try to keep the plant growing indoors for a month or so longer.
Fill a 20-25cm (8-10 in.) pot three-quarters full with potting soil, then spread the roots out and cover with more soil.
- If you want a supply of tender fresh leaves early next spring, cut off the tops and put the roots in seed trays or deeper boxes, then cover them with soil.
If you keep them in a greenhouse (or even a protected cold frame) you will be able to harvest new mint much earlier.
- Chives also respond favorably to lifting for an extended season.
Lift a small clump to pot up.
If it's too large, you should be able to pull it apart into smaller pieces.
- Place the clump in a pot of ordinary garden soil or potting soil, pat gently with hands, and water thoroughly.
It should continue to provide leaves after those outdoors have died back, and will produce new ones earlier next spring.
- If you cut down and pot up marjoram, it will usually spring into new growth, provided warmth and light are right.
- Parsley is always a dependable winter herb if grown from a late summer or autumn sowing and kept on a windowsill.
Come and see our great selection of Halloween, Thanksgiving Decorations and Christmas Decor.
By Halloween, our Garden Center is transformed into a Christmas Wonderland.
We have 12 different styles of Nativity Sets, Indoor and Outdoor
Christmas Lights, Artificial Christmas Trees, Garlands, Wreaths, and many more exciting Christmas decorations.
We also have an excellent selection of the popular 'Willow Tree; Sculptures by Susan Lordi; realistic statues by Joseph's Studio; and lifelike figurines by Fontanini.
|Click Here for More Handouts
This is one of the best, easiest and most delicious chilis for the fall season! Enjoy!
What You'll Need:
- 2 pounds of chicken breasts
- 3 green peppers
- 1 large yellow onion, diced
- 3 jalapeños, finely chopped (if you have someone who can't handle spicy, skip these and serve the chili with a hot sauce instead).
- 1 package of mushrooms
- 3 cans white navy beans
- 2 cups chicken stock
- 1 teaspoon cumin
- 3 tablespoons flour
- 3 tablespoons butter (do not use margarine)
- 2 cups of cheddar cheese, grated
Step by Step:
- In a large stock pot, bring 1 cup of water to a boil; add 2 cups chicken stock , 1 teaspoon of pepper, 1 teaspoon of cumin, and the cans of navy beans (do not drain).
- Bring all of that to a boil and put the burner on simmer.
- Chop 3 green peppers and onion into bite-sized pieces.
- Finely chop jalapeños (remember the heat comes from the membrane around the seeds; if you want less heat, discard the seeds)
- Chop the chicken breast into bite-sized pieces and, in a separate skillet, brown until done.
- Add the mushrooms, green peppers, jalapeños and onion to the stock pot. After the chicken has cooked and is done, add that to the stock pot.
- Add the 2 cups of chicken stock.
- In a separate skillet, melt 4 tablespoons of butter; add 4 tablespoons of flour and stir well (you are making a roux to thicken the chili). After the roux has been cooked through (do not brown, just cook for 2 minutes on medium), add to the stock pot.
- Stir till combined completely. Raise the heat to medium and allow to thicken.
- Gradually add 1 cup of the shredded cheese.
- Sprinkle the rest of the cheese on top of bowls when serving.